As it turns out, you can have too much of a good thing for your face
While I always teach that exfoliation is a great (and necessary) way to shed dead skin cells and reveal the fresh, radiant skin sitting below the surface, there are times when we can exfoliate a bit too much and a bit too often.
Here’s where it gets confusing, though: Some of the “purging” (like dry, peeling skin and breakouts) can also be markers of over-exfoliation. So, how can you tell if you need to buff away the buildup or give it a break?
Here’s a comprehensive guide to all things exfoliation, including how to nurse your skin back to health after you’ve gone too far.
Signs You’re Over-exfoliating
Over-exfoliating is pretty common especially in people who are new to medical grade exfoliating acids and/or those who have more sensitive skin types. Generally speaking, the use of exfoliating products should start off slow and gradually increase over time as tolerated. If you are brand new to a medical grade exfoliating acid that might mean just 1-3 timer per week.
If you’ve been slathering on the exfoliating acids daily, and your skin is molting off… there’s a good chance your skin is begging for a break.
Luckily, it should be fairly easy to tell if you’re overdoing it on the exfoliators.
Symptoms of over-exfoliation
- irritation, burning, or peeling
- redness and inflammation
- breakouts, especially small pimples
- increased sensitivity to other products in your routine
Eventually, your complexion will become dry and flaky. You may even develop a rash-like texture, leading to uneven tone (like patchy, red blotches). Breakouts are another common reaction, especially small, rough, bumpy pimples.
You may also see increased sensitivity to application of other products in your regimen. In other words, the remainder of your skin care routine may suddenly cause redness, burning, or peeling. But don’t blame it on your other products! It’s (probably) all the exfoliator’s fault.
Some of these symptoms have a tendency to make you feel like you need to exfoliate more, but resist. Here’s what you should do instead.
What to do if your skin is over-exfoliated
If you notice your skin going through any or all of these symptoms, then I highly recommend what I call a “total skin reset.” Skin resets are necessary when the skin barrier is compromised and you need to take a brief step away from all of the exfoliants. During a skin reset, you’re essentially letting your skin “breathe” and heal so that it can return to baseline texture. Your skin’s baseline differs from person to person; in general, it just means the texture your skin had before overexposure to the exfoliants. If you’ve always been acne prone, that will be your baseline texture. You’re really just waiting for the signs of over-exfoliation — redness, inflammation, peeling — to fade.
How to Perform a “Skin Reset”
- Stop all exfoliants such as retinol products, Koji-C/Lux pads, and physical or chemical exfoliators.
- Switch to a gentle cleanser and moisturizer.
- Spot treat extremely red or raw areas with a rich emollient, like Aquaphor or Vaniply. You can also use a hydrocortisone cream or aloe gel, such as our Rescue Cream.
- If you are experiencing any burning, apply a cold compress soaked in a bowl of ice and water.
The goal is to remove the aggravators and give your skin lots of hydration. I usually have my clients do a reset for ~7-10 days to help restore hydration to the skin. It can take up to 2-4 weeks — aka, the entire length of a skin cell cycle — for your skin to get back on track. Patience is key as your skin heals. Remember, irritation occurs because we have removed more skin cells than your body is able to replace. I know it’s hard, but your skin will return to normal over time with a little TLC.
How and When to Resume Your Exfoliating Products
Just because you’ve experienced some exfoliation irritation does NOT mean you need to swear these products off for good. Once your skin has healed, it’s totally okay and normal to reintroduce your favorite pads or acids — slowly and strategically.
Slow and Steady wins the race
When the 7-10 days of reset are up and your skin has recovered, you can slowly add each pad or exfoliant back in, one-by-one. The key is to go slowly!
I highly recommend taking a break from all pads every couple of nights to focus solely on hydration. I would always leave at least one day in between using different pads to focus on hydration! Hydration is KEY in obtaining healthy and happy skin!
Example for someone new to exfoliants for sensitive skin:
1. Start with just one exfoliant. Resume pads by using them just 1-2x per week with Rescue cream (or OTC hydrocortisone cream) on top. It’s OK to use Rescue cream on top of the pad while your skin is adjusting. Rescue cream is going to slightly neutralize the acid in the pads causing them to be more gentle. Eventually, you will use the pads with nothing on top but for now it’s totally OK.
2. After 1-2 weeks of using retinol per week with little to no irritation, we can now increase to every 3rd night. Apply Rescue cream on top of your skin post pad application as needed.
3. After 1-2 weeks of using retinol every 3rd night with little to no irritation, we can now increase to every other night. Apply rescue cream on top of your skin post pad application as needed.
Below is an example of a client who was using the Koji-C pads, Lux pads, and retinol in her regimen. Her skin was over-exfoliated with the new addition of the retinol. She completed a skin reset and slowed the use of her different pads down and she is now doing wonderful with mixing the trio in.
Example for someone using multiple exfoliants:
1. Add retinol back in by itself for ~2-4 weeks. Start by using them every third night with Rescue cream (or OTC hydrocortisone cream) on top. It’s OK to use Rescue cream on top of the retinol while your skin is adjusting. Rescue cream is going to slightly neutralize the acid in the pads causing them to be more gentle. Eventually, you will use the retinol with nothing on top but for now it’s totally OK.
2. After 2-4 weeks of using only retinol, we can now add the Koji-C pads in if your skin tolerated the retinol well. Alternate the Koji-C pads with the retinol at night. Apply Rescue cream on top of your skin post application as needed.
3. After 2-4 weeks of using both retinol and Koji-C pads, we can finally add the weekly Lux pads back in 1x a week with Rescue cream on top of your skin after application.
The key is to move slowly and to adjust to each pad individually to prevent over-exfoliation. We have to make sure you are tolerating one product very well before introducing the next exfoliator. Skin resets are very common, and I will be here every step of the way to make the process as smooth and successful as possible!
Always Listen To Your Skin!
The second you notice any redness, peeling, or ‘tingling,’ that’s a sign it’s time to cut back
Just like anything in skin care — or in life, really — exfoliation is best in moderation.
I highly recommend taking a break from all pads every couple of nights to focus solely on hydration. I would always leave at least one day in between using different pads to focus on hydration! Hydration is KEY in obtaining healthy and happy skin!
Exfoliation in Moderation is Key
As we age the rate at which we turn over skin cells slows and slows. Proper exfoliation leaves a fresh, healthy, and fully ‘cleansed’ epidermal surface.
Basically, exfoliation can deliver clearer skin when done correctly but if you mix and match different types of exfoliators or use a single product too often, your favorite exfoliants have the potential to do more harm than good.
The moral of this skin care story? It’s one beauty category where less really is more. Slow and steady wins the race!
XO
Racquel
